At Lewen Garment, we believe knitwear is not just for winter. By selecting the right yarn and gauge, a knitted garment can be the highlight of a man’s wardrobe year-round. Here is our professional guide to seasonal materials.
Table Overview
| Fabric | Season | Key Feature | Market Benchmarks |
| Sea Island Cotton / Mercerized Cotton | Spring | Silky Lustre, Cool Touch, Zero Itch | John Smedley, Sunspel |
| Cotton-Cashmere Blend | Spring | durable&soft, Transitional Weight | Theory, Ralph Lauren (Purple Label) |
| 100% Linen | Summer | Crisp & Dry, Natural Wrinkle, High Breathability | Loro Piana, Inis Meáin |
| High-Twist Cotton / Ice Cotton | Summer | Physical Coolness, Pilling Resistant | Margaret Howell, Zanone (IceCotton) |
| Merino Wool | Autumn | Smooth & Elastic, Thermoregulation | Thom Browne, Comme des Garçons |
| Lambswool | Autumn | Fuzzy & Rustic, Great Dye Uptake | Drake’s, Beams Plus |
| 100% Cashmere | Winter | Soft Gold, Waxy Handfeel | Brunello Cucinelli, The Elder Statesman |
| Mohair / Alpaca | Winter | Hairy Texture, Lightweight Volume | Acne Studios, Marni |
Spring: Breathable Luxury
Climate Needs: Mild days, cool evenings. Needs moderate warmth without overheating.
1. Sea Island Cotton / Mercerized Cotton
Characteristics:
Silky Lustre: The fiber is extremely long, creating a smooth, shiny surface.
Cool Touch: It feels cool against the skin, unlike fuzzy wool.
Zero Itch: Can be worn directly on the skin.
Recommended Craft:
Fine Gauge Plain Knit: 12G-16G, highlighting the fabric’s sheen.
Brand Benchmark:
John Smedley: Famous for their 30-gauge Sea Island Cotton polos.
Sunspel: Known for lightweight, luxurious cotton knits.
2. Cotton-Cashmere Blend
Characteristics:
Best of Both Worlds: The durability of cotton meets the softness of cashmere.
Transitional Weight: Warmer than pure cotton, cooler than pure wool.
Brand Benchmark:
Theory: Often uses this blend for minimalist spring sweaters.
Ralph Lauren (Purple Label): Uses this for premium spring cable knits.
Summer: Dry & Airy
Climate Needs: High heat and humidity. Needs maximum airflow and moisture wicking.
1. 100% Linen
Characteristics:
Crisp & Dry Handfeel: It doesn’t cling to the body when sweating.
Natural Wrinkle: Represents a relaxed, “vacation” vibe.
High Breathability: The fibers are hollow and allow heat to escape.
Recommended Craft:
Jersey or Openwork/Mesh: Loose knitting to enhance airflow.
Brand Benchmark:
Loro Piana: The gold standard for luxury linen shirts and knits.
Inis Meáin: Famous for their “Pub Jacket” in linen.
2. High-Twist Cotton / Ice Cotton
Characteristics:
Physical Coolness: By twisting the yarn tightly, the surface becomes hard and round, reducing contact with skin.
Pilling Resistance: Very durable.
Recommended Craft:
Links Stitch: Adds texture without heat.
Brand Benchmark:
Margaret Howell: Often uses high-twist cotton for a structured, dry look.
Zanone (IceCotton): They have a patented “IceCotton” that feels famously cold.
Autumn: Structure & Texture
Climate Needs: Dropping temperatures, wind. Needs structure for layering and style.
1. Merino Wool
Characteristics:
Smooth & Elastic: Unlike coarse wool, it’s refined and holds shape well.
Thermoregulation: Keeps you warm but breathes if you step indoors.
Recommended Craft:
Milano Rib: Creates a fabric-like structure, perfect for cardigans or jackets.
Brand Benchmark:
Thom Browne: Uses Merino in tight weaves (Milano stitch) for their signature structured cardigans.
Comme des Garçons: Uses fine merino for their classic heart logo sweaters.
2. Lambswool
Characteristics:
Fuzzy & Rustic: Taken from the first shearing of a sheep, it’s softer than regular wool but has a charming, slightly rough texture.
Great Dye Uptake: Colors look deep and rich.
Brand Benchmark:
Drake’s: Famous for their colorful Shetland/Lambswool vests and sweaters.
Beams Plus: The go-to for Japanese Americana style lambswool knits.
Winter: Warmth & Loft
Climate Needs: Freezing temperatures. Needs insulation (trapping air) and comfort.
1. 100% Cashmere
Characteristics:
Soft Gold: 8 times warmer than wool, yet lighter.
Waxy Handfeel: Feels like butter, absolutely no scratchiness.
Recommended Craft:
Cable Knit: Increases thickness and warmth significantly.
Brand Benchmark:
Brunello Cucinelli: The “King of Cashmere,” known for natural color palettes.
The Elder Statesman: Known for heavy, trendy, tie-dye cashmere.
2. Mohair / Alpaca
Characteristics:
Hairy Texture: Has a visible “halo” or fuzz that looks fashionable and warm.
Lightweight Volume: Looks big and chunky but is actually very light.
Brand Benchmark:
Acne Studios: Their striped mohair sweaters are iconic.
Marni: Famous for fuzzy, colorful brushed mohair cardigans.
How to Choose at Lewen Garment?
For a Business Casual Look: Choose Merino Wool or Sea Island Cotton. Look to John Smedley or Thom Browne for inspiration.
For a Streetwear/Trendy Look: Choose Mohair or Heavy Lambswool. Look to Acne Studios or Beams for inspiration.
For Ultimate Luxury: Choose 100% Cashmere or Silk-Linen Blends. Look to Loro Piana or Brunello Cucinelli.
Ready to start your custom knitwear line?
Contact us for yarn color cards and swatch samples.